Dedicated to goodness: The Restaurant
Fine dining without the fuss. Is that possible? A fine plate served in a reputable fine dining restaurant simply has to be fine. It's that simple. But what exactly is fine dining? What do we really expect from a fine dish? In my opinion, a successful fine plate must have the basic essentials: Well-thought-out taste balances, premium products and technically perfect execution. One thing that can be omitted is the storytelling element, which is often the case these days. Chefs struggle to explain their inspirations and give meaning to each dish they serve. In Türkiye, their stories usually start in the Neolithic era or earlier, explaining the beginning of agriculture and trying to connect their dishes to the country's profound richness. While such storytelling can be sympathetic at times, it is often unnecessary and excessive.
Sometimes, we simply want to savor the taste and admire the pristine precision of the plate placed before us. This is the true essence of finesse in high-profile dining. However, we also need an explanation of what we are tasting and the story behind the inspiration. Just as with contemporary art, we seek guidance to direct us to the core meaning of the piece of art or the dish in front of us. Everything is about balance. Too much storytelling can also cause us to lose focus. Sometimes it's about searching for roots in the alleys of history or childhood memories. But after all the storytelling, you take a look at the plate and, to be frank, you can't make the connection. This is exactly the point at which you realize that good art does not need an explanation. It's just art.
Finesse comes from sincerity
These were the thoughts that sparked in my mind when I recently visited the award-winning restaurant of the exceptional hotel, The Dolder Grand Hotel in Zurich, Switzerland. The hotel, worthy of a separate article, boasts an incredible art collection displayed at every corner of its historic building and modern annex. The property also features a 4,000-square-meter Spa and sports facilities, including a nine-hole golf course and a tennis club. But that is not all. In addition to these incredible facilities, the strong point of the hotel is gastronomy, offering an amazing range of dining choices. Its top restaurant, helmed by the celebrated German chef Nieder, is aptly named: The Restaurant. Such a straightforward, modest and free-from-vanity attitude to name a restaurant!
I would later realize that the chef’s approach to his food was no different. Every single course we had was meticulously crafted and beautifully plated. The taste balances were harmonious in every sense, with unexpected Asian flavors adding the perfect touch to each dish. The vegetarian options I tried were sublime as well, achieving a high standard without the need for expensive, luxurious ingredients. The Restaurant holds 2 Michelin stars and has been awarded 19 Gault Millau points out of 20, a feat that is very hard to achieve. As one of the most highly rated restaurants in Zurich, the place exudes artistry and refinement. Finesse comes from sincere dedication to the art and craft of the profession, and Nieder is a chef who masterfully embodies this skill.
A table with a view
The Dolder boasts an unrivaled location overlooking Zurich, offering a magnificent view of the Alps and the city. One table in particular has the most amazing view. The excellent view of the Alps matches the excellence of the cuisine. However, enjoying this view as if it were reserved only for the lucky few comes with a dilemma. It's easy to become distracted and wonder whether to focus on the food, the view, or the outstanding artwork displayed in one of the most skillfully decorated restaurant spaces. Nieder is a chef who pays close attention to detail, so his plates resemble meticulously crafted works of art. His passion for detail is evident in every dish that comes to the table. You may have been lucky enough to get a table with a mesmerizing view of the Alps, but the spectacle on the plate will steal the show — you'll hardly be able to concentrate on the magnificent view.
Nieder’s cookbook can actually be considered as one of the artworks on display. At the entrance to The Restaurant, the book is artfully placed under a Dalí painting, with a Max Ernst piece resting nearby. The book is simply titled as “The Restaurant” just like the venue. Nieder is a dedicated chef who is purely honest about the goodness of the food. He is a quiet man who lets his plates speak for themselves. The book reflects that. There is no need for elaborate stories to give meaning to the food he presents. Like the artworks that adorn the venue, he does not feel the urge to explain his art, which is innovative and technically perfect. This honest, dedicated approach to goodness is more than enough. That is what true fineness is about.
