The fire keeps burning. Last year was the turn of the Red Fire Monkey, now it is the turn of the Red Fire Rooster. According to Chinese astrology, the zodiac cycle consists of 12 animals taking their turn each year. But it is also the five elements - wood, fire, earth, metal and water - that give their own particular character to the animal. The nature of the element directly affects the nature of the animal, so the year of a certain animal can show quite a different profile under the influence of the element attached to that year. It is probably more appropriate to say it is the Year of the Chicken, as this year also has the influence of female red metal. Red metal points out gold, so this year has a golden touch, but the poor chicken is also about hard working and tough times. Recipe of the Month: My recipe suggestion is a very simple chicken dish, (not a roast one): Poached chicken with ginger, spring onion and chili pepper. This recipe does not require any hard work so it might be your last chance to make a lazy easy dinner before welcoming a tough year. Place a whole chicken in a large pot; pour enough boiling water to cover it; bring to boil again and pour off the water. Put fresh water back in the pot, again enough to cover; add a handful of torn spring onions, a 3-4 cm piece of bruised ginger, a few crushed cloves of ginger, 2-3 pieces of star-anise, peel of a tangerine, salt and pepper. Bring back to boil and cook until the flesh falls off the bone. Take the chicken out, reserving the stock for soup. When cool enough to handle, tear the chicken into pieces off the bone, and neatly stack them in a serving platter. Sprinkle abundantly with diced spring onions (green parts) and finely chopped ginger. Heat a few tablespoons oil until smoking hot and pour over the onions and ginger. Dress with a little diluted soy sauce (3 parts soy sauce to 1 part water). Serve lukewarm; it is also good cold in sandwiches.
Fork of the Week: Undoubtedly, the most famous and intriguing chicken dish in Turkish cuisine is a sweet one: “tavuk göğsü,” the unique chicken breast pudding. Even the name is bold and brave, though the chicken is totally disguised, not seen and not even tasted. But the name openly reveals its secret, literally translated as “chicken breast.” It sounds quite unusual but it is omnipresent in Istanbul pudding shops. There are a number of favorite places, but two good ones are very central and close to each other. They are located on either side of the Galata Bridge, so it is even possible to make a cross tasting: The Eminönü branch of Saray, which is independently owned unlike others on the chain, and Özsüt, which again is not related to the chain, but an independently owned pudding shop. Both are delicious and rightly done.
Cork of the Week: This cool poached chicken pairs nicely with an aromatic and dry white. These days I’m strangely into white wines, even though the snow and chill outside really calls for the red. Maybe it is because I enjoy chilling my wine buried in the snow out in the garden, and take an occasional peek outside to take a breath and refill the glass. I’m particularly into Chamlija wines from Thrace - vivacious whites that really perk me up. Also nice are the cheerful bottle labels featuring illustrations of İrem Çamlıca, the daughter of Bülent Çamlıca, the owner of the winery. Try the Chamlija Albarino 2014, which goes fantastically well with Asian flavors, and which will revive you from winter lethargy.
