Quiet mastery: Mauro Colagreco’s poetic dialogue between nature and plate in Bodrum
Ebru Erke
In an age when the global recognition of a chef is no longer defined solely by what’s on the plate, Mauro Colagreco speaks a rare culinary language — one rooted in philosophy, nature’s cycles, and a quiet defiance of convention.
The way a chef finds resonance in the world is no longer determined solely by the dishes they create. What truly sets them apart is the philosophy behind their kitchen, the sensory approach they embrace and the narrative voice that differentiates them from their peers. Chef Mauro Colagreco is one of the most eloquent speakers of this language. At Mirazur, he anchors his menus in the seasons, the lunar cycle and the rhythm of nature itself — quietly and deliberately transcending the classic boundaries of French cuisine.
So, how does such a distinctive culinary voice tell a story in Bodrum — a place where, beneath the glittering surfaces, the search for genuine flavor often fades into the background?
At the dinner held last week at Lucca by the Sea, there was neither a grand spectacle on the table nor theatrically surprising plates. Instead, there was a simplicity elevated by delicate balances and precise cooking techniques; quiet, understated, yet profoundly layered. Considering that much of the fine dining world still operates with the impulse to “make an impact,” Mauro’s menu felt almost like an antithesis. Nothing on that night “shouted” — yet everything “spoke softly and deeply.” And precisely because of that, it was remarkable.
Between 2019 and 2021, Mirazur held the title of Best Restaurant in the World on the 50 Best Restaurants list. When the pandemic abruptly stopped the clock, Colagreco transformed that pause into a reconnection with nature. In his three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Menton, on the French-Italian border, menus have since been shaped by the phases of the moon. Spending more time in the restaurant’s own gardens, the chef developed a new philosophy centred on nature’s cyclical rhythm. This approach is rooted in the lunar calendar, which also underpins biodynamic farming principles.
In Mirazur’s gardens, produce is planted, pruned and harvested in accordance with the moon’s phases. Fruits, roots, leaves and flowers are picked at the precise moments when their flavor, balance and nutritional value are at their peak. The menu is then built around this quartet, with themes like “fruit day,” “leaf day,” “root day,” and “flower day.” Each day offers a gastronomic experience that mirrors the energy of that moment in nature
In Bodrum, Mauro’s menu for us at Lucca began under the inspiration of flowers. The opening plate, a red prawn tartare adorned with petals, carried a visual echo of Aboriginal artist Gloria Petyarre’s cosmic brushstrokes, famed for her mastery of colour. The beetroot dish that followed quickly became the crowd favourite of the evening. Roasted for hours under a crust of salt — a method that works wonders for all root vegetables — the beets were slow-cooked at 65–75°C, a temperature at which their starches naturally convert to simple sugars, intensifying sweetness, softening earthiness and deepening flavor. Topped with an Oscietra caviar and sour cream emulsion, the acidity and salinity created a masterful balance. The John Dory that followed was served with a sauce made from Sudachi, a citrus fruit that is a fragrant hybrid between yuzu and mandarin.
Brought to Türkiye by the Mey Diageo organisation, Mauro didn’t just serve a menu on that warm Bodrum evening — he brought with him a way of thinking. Even more impressive was how he also brought Mirazur’s dining room manager to oversee the service, ensuring the experience remained complete and controlled from start to finish.
By day, the beachfront section of the Mandarin Oriental operates as “Lucca Beach.” By 7 p.m., the focus shifts to the nearby pier, where a grand table is set and Lucca by the Sea comes to life. This is not merely an extension of Lucca’s Istanbul following — it also draws in Bodrum’s refined international visitors. Cem Mirap’s approach here is notable; rather than relying on the mindset of “Whatever I price, my clients will pay,” he focuses on delivering an experience worthy of what is charged. Now in its fifth season in Bodrum, Lucca’s reputation rests not on seasonal Instagram flashes but on the awareness of a discerning clientele.
Lucca by the Sea brings the quality of its Istanbul counterpart to Bodrum’s free-spirited, nature-embracing atmosphere, but does so not through a formulaic brand continuation — instead rebuilding itself with the support of local ingredients and producers. Featured in Michelin’s Bodrum selection as a recommended restaurant, it stands as one of our strong representatives of contemporary global cuisine.
At the helm is Executive Chef Tuncay Uçar, who has been with Lucca since the day it opened nearly twenty years ago. The synergy between Chef Tuncay and Cem Mirap is evident in every bite. The seafood-centred menu includes standouts such as Bodrum ceviche with scallop, squid and shrimp in a Bodrum mandarin “tiger milk,” crab rolls, lobster paccheri, fresh truffle pizza and a perfectly tender Çanakkale octopus — a lineup that confirms why the restaurant has earned its loyal following.
