Singapore’s table: From hawkers to world-class restaurants

Singapore’s table: From hawkers to world-class restaurants

Ebru Erke
Singapore’s table: From hawkers to world-class restaurants
 
 

 

Singapore’s culinary identity comes alive between two rhythms: the simple sentences of the neighborhood hawker and the long-form narratives of fine dining. And to me, the city’s real success lies in its ability to keep these two worlds side by side. Gastronomic achievement should not be limited to global awards alone. Preserving local social bonds, passing down recipes from generation to generation and safeguarding the daily rituals that keep the neighborhood table alive are also measures of success. In Singapore, sitting down at the table is far more than a meal: it is an invitation to co-existence, to the sharing of identity and to experiencing the imprint of urban memory on flavor. Over time, this island has evolved into a vibrant culinary stage, where the meeting of different migrant cuisines has given rise to a new national gastronomy.

 

Let us begin with the hawkers. Nestled within neighborhoods, hawkers act as social equalizers, serving a purpose in the urban fabric that goes well beyond food. People from different income brackets can eat within the same price range; tables become spaces for neighborly conversation and the daily exchange of news. These public dining arenas renew the sense of belonging for city dwellers. Hawker culture — at the very heart of daily life in Singapore — emerged in the early 20th century, when individual street vendors gradually came together in centralized locations. But you must set aside whatever hawker images you have in mind from elsewhere. In Singapore, hygiene and order are matters of shared responsibility. Routine inspections are not borne by vendors alone; CCTV cameras watch over the area and diners themselves are expected to clean their own tables — failure to do so results in a fine. The government’s policies to regulate, protect and modernise hawkers have resulted in today’s clean, accessible and socially inclusive hawker centres.

 

Hawkers are a direct reflection of Singapore’s multicultural culinary fabric. Broadly speaking, these layers can be summarized as follows: Chinese influence: Cantonese, Hokkien, Teochew and Hainanese traditions — for instance, chicken rice (Hainanese) and char kway teow (Cantonese/Hokkien influence). Malay / Indonesian roots: Use of sambal and ikan bilis (anchovies), distinctive spice profiles and a vibrant street food culture. Indian (Tamil and South Indian) influence: Roti, varieties of curry, coconut-based applications and spice blends. Peranakan (Nyonya) cuisine: A fusion of Chinese and Malay techniques, with distinctive flavors such as laksa and buah keluak.

 

In 2020, UNESCO inscribed Singapore’s hawker culture on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In its assessment, the organization highlighted hawker culture as a living example of how a multi-layered identity can be sustained across generations in a densely urbanized environment. This recognition should not be read merely as a preservation status; it is also a diplomatic platform that showcases Singapore’s gastronomic diversity as part of its identity-building on the world stage.

 

One thing you must try when visiting Singapore is kaya toast, a breakfast staple that has been part of the country’s identity for 33 years. Brought by Hainanese migrants, it has become both a beloved part of the national breakfast heritage and a culinary ambassador abroad — its inclusion in the “World’s 50 Best Sandwiches” list in 2024 is testament to that. Kaya toast breakfast consists of two slices of toasted bread layered with pandan-coconut jam (kaya) and generous butter, served with soft-boiled eggs and “kopi” — local coffee. Another essential taste is the chicken rice introduced by the Chinese; whether you prefer it with poached chicken or roasted, I strongly recommend you try one version at least.

 

Over the past decade, Singapore has drawn international attention not only for its hawkers but also for its fine dining scene. The arrival of the Michelin Guide in 2016 significantly strengthened the city’s high-end gastronomic profile. The coexistence of three-starred stalwarts (Odette, Les Amis, Zén) with new omakase and contemporary cuisine ventures shows that Singapore has become a culinary hub that blends Western-European traditions with Asian originality. This aligns directly with the city’s gastronomic tourism strategies.

 

What fine dining offers — in contrast to hawkers — is clear: Extended menus, service rituals, global supply chains and a different price tier. Yet the two worlds increasingly touch. Chefs draw inspiration from hawker recipes; some hawkers partner with restaurant chains or rise through “fine casual” concepts. Singapore’s fine dining chefs distinguish themselves not only through technical mastery but also through their ability to bring cultural narratives into the restaurant. Some translate local ingredients, hawker spirit and ethnic memory into the refined sentences of haute cuisine, producing a “haute local” dialect. This approach speaks to one of the most important debates of recent years — that fine dining is no longer merely a Western formality, but a space that reinterprets local flavors through global presentations.

 

 The art of travel to Singapore

 

When travelling to a country, one of the things I value most is flying there with its national airline. There is nothing quite like allowing the spirit of your destination to begin working its way into your soul the moment you step on board. That is precisely why, for my journey to Singapore, I chose Singapore Airlines. As the gateway of Asia’s rising star to the world, this carrier is far more than mere transportation — it is the airborne embodiment of Far Eastern hospitality and contemporary luxury. Offering direct flights from Istanbul to Singapore four times a week, Singapore Airlines turns this long-haul journey into an experience of “slowed-down luxury.” Before the plane even leaves the ground, you find yourself in a tranquil, spa-like environment that is at once refined and equipped with the latest technology.

 

Perhaps the most accurate way to define the Singapore Airlines experience is “a change in rhythm.” Flying with them feels like slipping out of the frenzy of modern life and into an entirely different flow. Cabin layouts, sound insulation, lighting systems, even the sound of the crew’s footsteps — all seem orchestrated as part of a choreography. If you are travelling in Business or First Class, this rhythm feels tailored exclusively to you. The personalised menu options have all the finesse of a Michelin-starred restaurant. One of the architects of this refinement is the iconic “Singapore Girl” cabin crew. Dressed in traditional sarong kebaya uniforms, they embody the warmth of Asian hospitality, delivering service not as a mere professional duty, but as a cultural inheritance. In every gesture, there is respect, intuition and care.

 

Singapore Airlines knows how to make you lose track of time in flight. It’s not only about ergonomic design and generous space, but also about immersive entertainment. The KrisWorld interactive platform offers hundreds of films, series, music albums and even meditation content to soothe both mind and body. Attention is paid not just to screens, but to small details: hot towels scented with the airline’s signature Batik Flora fragrance (crafted from six floral notes), delicate aromatics and soft-textured blankets. These details turn the flight into a ritual.

 

In dining, the elegance of the East meets the technical precision of the West. Through the “Book the Cook” service, you can pre-order chef-prepared dishes that maintain their freshness and refinement even in the sky. Alongside dishes tailored to Turkish tastes, the menu features modern interpretations of Asian cuisine. With Singapore Airlines, you begin discovering Singapore before you even set foot in the city — the airline reflects both the nation’s technological progress and its cultural elegance.

 

Upon landing at Changi Airport, it feels as though you’ve stepped into the next act of the same script: fluid, serene, high-standard and aesthetically refined. This level of quality extends not only to flights to Singapore but also to all Asian, Australian and Pacific connections. Even on regional routes, the same care, comfort and service standards persist. The journey, therefore, becomes not a fragmented process but a seamless, single-piece life experience.