The deepening of an idea: Ten years of Gastromasa

Ebru Erke

Some ideas do not flare up in an instant; they deepen slowly, patiently, like roots growing unseen beneath the soil. Gastromasa, created by Gökmen Sözen, was born from such a seed of thought. And in time, it grew beyond being an event — it became a way for Türkiye to tell its story to the world anew.

As we met to discuss the upcoming tenth anniversary of Gastromasa, Sözen still speaks of its first edition with emotion: “I will never forget that moment when chefs from all over the world sat at the same table with Turkish producers. That day, it was not just an event — it was the birth of an idea.”

Back then, Turkish gastronomy was only beginning to make its voice heard. On one hand stood a new generation of chefs exploring fine dining; on the other, a cuisine still confined to touristic clichés.

And in that very moment, Gastromasa appeared — like a small but brilliant spark. On its stage, chefs from every corner of the globe — Massimo Bottura, Alex Atala, Andoni Luis Aduriz and Vladimir Mukhin — spoke for the first time in a shared language: The universal language of food.

For Gökmen, the dialects of gastronomy may differ, but their essence is the same: “At the heart of every great kitchen lies respect — respect for the product, for nature, for tradition.” That sentence, in many ways, summarizes the transformation of Turkish gastronomy itself.

For years, we admired the world’s cuisines from afar, yet overlooked the stories behind our own ingredients. Today, that mirror has turned. The labor of the producer has been brought to the stage; the potential of local ingredients has been carried into global dialogue.

And so I would say: Gastromasa is not merely a conference — it has become a stage upon which Turkish gastronomy can finally see itself clearly.

Ten years ago, Türkiye's culinary scene was in the midst of redefining its identity. Many chefs were beginning to reinterpret the ingredients of Anatolia through contemporary techniques, but international visibility remained limited. Sözen’s goal was to change that: “The gastronomy of this country was powerful enough to leave an imprint not only on the plate but on the heart. I wanted to share our story with the world.”

And indeed, he succeeded. Today, across the world’s menus, one finds the wheat, yogurt, olive oil and spices of Anatolia. More importantly, when one speaks of “Turkish cuisine” now, it no longer conjures only kebab or baklava, but a new identity — one defined by creativity, terroir consciousness and sustainability.

Gastronomy is a living organism, the most direct reflection of a nation’s pulse. In recent years, this ecosystem has expanded in Türkiye.

Where once only chefs and restaurants took the spotlight, producers, media, brands and consumers have joined the same chain.

Today, the picture is entirely different: the farmer in Anatolia, the local artisan, the food brands and the gastronomy media all belong to the same story.

Sözen describes this transformation in a single word: Confidence. “Turkish gastronomy no longer imitates — it expresses itself.”

There was a time when we tried to resemble other cuisines; today, we speak our own culinary language. And perhaps the most beautiful part of this transformation is that the need to emulate has been replaced by the courage to believe in oneself.

Gastromasa is no longer an event held once a year. It is evolving into an ecosystem that extends into cities, screens and even fields of production.

Through the “Gastromasa Experience” concept, the team plans to organize boutique events across different regions of Türkiye — aiming not only to talk about gastronomy but to live it where it happens.

This vision is forming a new map of Türkiye's gastronomic diversity, stretching from the tea gardens of the Black Sea to the olive groves of the Aegean, from the baklava ateliers of Gaziantep to the cheese cellars of Kars.

In other words, Gastromasa is no longer the stage where international chefs visit Istanbul — it is becoming the platform where Türkiye's own producers and stories meet the world.

Sözen defines the next decade as an “age of conscious creativity.”

Flavor alone is no longer enough; a dish’s story, its respect for nature and its sustainability now matter just as much. This is not merely a culinary evolution but a human one. A plate of food today is measured not only by taste but by its ethics.

At this point, Sözen emphasizes one essential truth: that amid the rise of technology, the human spirit must not be lost.

“Artificial intelligence, data analytics, sustainable agricultural technologies — all of these are transforming the kitchen,” he says. “But gastronomy, at its core, remains an art form centered on humanity.”

That may be the most vital awareness of our time. Because gastronomy today demands not only innovation, but responsibility.

When I ask him about the most unforgettable moment of the past decade, Sözen smiles and recalls a voice that still echoes in his mind: “Do not turn waste into garbage; turn it into creativity,” Massimo Bottura said.

That sentence applies not only to the kitchen but to Türkiye's culinary journey itself. What was once overlooked potential has now become a chain of creativity linking producers and chefs alike.

Another moment that marked him deeply came from Alex Atala, who once told a Turkish producer: “These lands hold the greatest cuisine in the world, but you are not yet aware of it.”

That remark, even today, feels as relevant as ever. Perhaps Gastromasa’s greatest mission is precisely this: To recognize, to make others recognize and to tell the story to the world.

When Gökmen Sözen reflects on the past decade, he utters a sentence that captures everything: “Gastromasa has taught me, above all, to understand people.”

Behind the lights and applause, that is perhaps the truest essence of it all.

Sitting at the same table for 10 years with chefs, producers, journalists and brands from across the world teaches one simple truth: food is a form of empathy.

It connects people beyond language, status and geography.

A decade ago, this journey began as a dream. Today, it stands as a reality.

Yet even as they reach the place they once imagined, they remain in motion because Gastromasa’s essence lies not in endings but in beginnings.

The next goal is to build a global network that connects culinary communities across the world through shared values and mutual respect.

As someone who has witnessed this story unfold, I can say this with certainty: Gastromasa’s true achievement is not only in bringing Michelin-starred chefs to Türkiye, but in crafting a language through which this country can finally share its own gastronomic story with the world.