When flavor becomes emotion: The case of cheese
EBRU ERKE
Our variety of Tulum cheeses is so vast that each region offers its own distinct version. However, when it comes to Tulum cheeses from the highlands of Mersin, Isparta and Antalya — particularly in the shadow of the Taurus Mountains — it’s not just about the taste.
Last week, I found myself in Antalya, taking part in an event that aimed to uncover the essence of regional cuisine. When one mentions Antalya and regional cuisine, the mind naturally drifts to familiar staples like "piyaz," "şiş köfte" and "serpme börek." But thanks to Seyit Tezgel, the executive chef of Titanic Mardan Palace, we were invited to explore a richer, far more sophisticated culinary landscape.
Among the many memorable experiences for me, it was the breakfast table curated by Chef Seyit that left the most lasting impression. At first glance, one might wonder: How extraordinary can a breakfast spread truly be? But in a world where quality so often speaks louder than quantity, this table told a different story.
Even the most upscale chef-led restaurants could find it difficult to showcase such cheeses, which were a revelation in and of themselves. In that moment, it became clear just how deeply Chef Seyit is connected to the region’s authentic producers and how passionately he brings their craft to the table.
There was a cave-aged obruk cheese whose hue had deepened from amber to hazelnut shell; a striking blue-mold sheep cheese known as “Korkuteli Green,” matured within the cool depths of a cave; a rich Tabal cheese crafted from full-fat cow’s milk; and yet another blue-mold cheese with a velvety soft-ripened texture and a delicately balanced sharpness in a flavor reminiscent of those from northern countries. I couldn’t help but express my desire to meet the artisan behind such remarkable cheese varieties.
Chef Seyit kindly shared his contact, and I wasted no time in calling. To my surprise, the number was already saved in my phone: Mustafa Ata – Korkuteli Tulum Peyniri. It was then that I realized—I had unknowingly been searching for him all along. Years ago, a friend had brought me Tulum cheese from Korkuteli, its color turned melon-like with age. That unforgettable flavor had set me on a quiet quest to rediscover its maker. And now, here he was.
Ata Peynircilik was founded by Mustafa Ata, a native of Korkuteli. Mustafa Ata’s roots in animal husbandry run deep — both his maternal and paternal grandfathers were livestock farmers. He later learned the cheese-making craft from skilled cheesemakers in the industry. Today, the company boasts a large production facility in Korkuteli and several retail shops across Antalya. I made my way to one of the shops, where I was greeted by an array of remarkable cheeses, many of them pressed into large and small Tulum casings. In addition to their signature cheeses, they also produce and sell other regional varieties. “Very few people still consume traditional cheeses,” Mr. Mustafa shared as he guided me through the selection. Consequently, he explained, these traditional cheeses are now produced in much smaller quantities than in years past.
It’s hard not to feel a sense of loss when considering this. After all, Tulum cheeses are among our most cherished gastronomic heritage. The term “Tulum cheese” refers to the uniquely Turkish practice of aging and storing cheese in a “tulum,” a skin made from goat or sheep hide. While similar methods of cheese aging can be found in various regions around the world — such as parts of Azerbaijan, Iran, and some villages in Greece — the specific tradition of Tulum cheese, with its distinct cultural identity and level of development, is relatively rare outside of Türkiye.
Our variety of Tulum cheeses is so vast that each region offers its own distinct version—whether it’s from the highlands of Erzincan, Divriği, Izmir, Erzurum, Kemaliye, Antalya, Isparta or Mersin. Every one of these cheeses has distinct flavors and qualities. However, when it comes to Tulum cheeses from the highlands of Mersin, Isparta and Antalya —particularly in the shadow of the Taurus Mountains — it’s not just about the taste, the production process, or where the cheese is aged. What truly enriches the story is the deep connection to the nomadic Yörük culture and the life stories of the Yörük people who have shaped this tradition over time.
In the Taurus plateaus, small ruminants, particularly goats, are the dominant livestock. After the morning milking of sheep and goats, the milk is blended in seasonal proportions and fermented that same day using abomasum rennet. The fermented milk is then traditionally crushed and strained. The resulting curd is placed in cloth bags which are then hung up to drain. Afterward, it is salted, kneaded and packed into casings made from goat skin that has been carefully cleaned, salted and dried. The cheese is left to mature in these casings in cool stone rooms, underground cellars, or the caves and sinkholes (obruk) that are common throughout the region.
Producers like Ata Peynircilik, who strive to preserve and carry forward this ancient tradition while honoring its cultural roots, play a crucial role in our gastronomy. What we must do — just as we should with many other traditional products — is to move beyond seeing “Tulum cheese” merely as an item on the table. We need to embrace its rich history and, of course, enjoy it. By doing so, we will have contributed to the preservation of this valuable cultural heritage.
The cheese I mentioned earlier is merely a small reflection of the vision of Seyit Tezgel, the executive chef who organized the event, and the hotel that supported his efforts. Titanic Mardan Palace challenges conventional perceptions of food at high-volume hotels. The key to this distinction lies in the fact that the family behind the brand has a deep-rooted background in the food and beverage industry, which translates into a unique level of attention and dedication to the kitchen. Mehmet Aygün, the founder of the brand, began his career in Germany at a young age, initially making "döner kebab." Later, he opened Hasır Restaurant, where he sold döner kebab and other Turkish dishes, tailoring them to the German palate with tzatziki and various sauces. The döner kebab served at the hotel for lunch is undoubtedly worthy of a spot on our top 10 list. They also have an exceptional baker who prepares Samsun-style closed "pide," which is just as remarkable as the döner kebab itself.
