Fish season starts!

ISTANBUL

Fishing season officially opens as of today. Sept. 1 is the date that fishermen have been waiting for. They are now ready to set sail, hailing the traditional cry, “Vira Bismillah!” to start the fishing season, which will last until mid-April. “Vira” is a nautical term that comes from the Italian phrase “vira la nave” meaning “to heave away from shore” or “to raise anchor” in order to navigate to the open sea. “Bismillah” is an Islamic phrase in Arabic meaning “in the name of God.” This traditional term truly represents Istanbul’s fishermen and reflects the city’s cultural complexity intertwined with the sea. There is a long-held belief that the Muslim communities in the Ottoman Empire did not like fish much, and that fish-centric cuisine belonged more to the non-Muslim communities, particularly the Greeks. The fact that most fishermen were Greek supported that perception, but that did not mean they were the only ones who savored the harvest of the sea. Perhaps this misconception arose from the abundance of fish and seafood in Byzantine cuisine, as well as the religious calendar that dictates consuming fish on certain fasting days when abstaining from meat and dairy. Multireligious Ottoman Istanbul was no different; there was a cultural continuation, plus the added culinary practices Ottomans brought with them. Ultimately, the geography and unique setting of the city shaped its food. There are still flavors and tastes that resonate with the city’s rich past. Istanbul has always been a city of fish, and all Istanbulites, regardless of religion or ethnicity, have always enjoyed the bounty of the Bosphorus.

The Bounty of the Bosphorus

The Bosphorus Strait has always been rich in fish and diverse species due to its unique biological corridor. The strait connects two seas, the Black Sea and the Marmara Sea, which further connects to the Aegean Sea and the Mediterranean Sea. This creates a great passageway for fish to go back and forth seasonally from either direction. Foreign travelers to Istanbul have always been fascinated and amazed by the bounty of the Bosphorus. One attraction that drew the attention of European travelers visiting Istanbul in the 18th and 19th centuries was the Galata fish market. In their travelogues, they praised its beauty and variety, describing it as the world's largest and most perfect fish market, and mentioning the freshness and delicacy of the fish sold.

Istanbulites usually didn’t even bother buying fish; they just helped themselves by throwing a line and a hook into the sea. Usually, the reward came by the bucketful. Even the Topkapı Palace kitchen could get a supply just from its shores for the Sultan’s meals. Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror was known to be very fond of caviar and oysters, the latter of which were sometimes flash-grilled over charcoal. Caviar was also present at the tables of elite Ottoman families. Interestingly, it was once common to have cured fish and seafood delicacies at the iftar table to break the fast during the month of Ramadan.

Istanbul Fish Calendar

For Istanbulites, the seasons are more than just spring, summer, autumn, and winter. In the old days, they also recognized the seasons according by the produce available during each one. These eagerly awaited seasons, which shaped life, were like a food calendar for citizens, fussing

constantly with the idea of when to eat what, and even how. Throughout history, Istanbul has always had its own fish calendar. When September arrived, it meant that it was time for bonito, “palamut” in Turkish, then followed by the “lüfer,” the famed Bosphorus bluefish season.

In a way, the Istanbul fish calendar was a strictly followed gourmet guide for fish lovers. The unofficial opening was always in the second half of August with sardines. These small, silvery fish were wrapped in freshly picked grape leaves and grilled over charcoal. A true late-summer delight! Bonitos would follow, flowing in huge quantities. In certain years, they were so abundant that one could catch them by hand straight from the sea. In an abundant bonito year, it’s as if there’s an exodus from the Black Sea, with the fish hastily moving towards warmer waters. However, experts say this will likely not be the case this year. While bonito season continues, bonitos are getting bigger and fattier; the way to cook them changes. Lean ones end up being fried, the other either grilled or poached. As the size of the bonito continues to change, it is time for the Bosphorus “lüfer” to take center stage.

Lüfer: The jewel of the Bosphorus

Known as the jewel of the Bosphorus, lüfer gradually appears when September arrives. As the weather cools down in the fall, the lüfer moves toward the Bosphorus, and its deliciousness lasts until December. Caught with a fishing rod under the moonlight in the Istanbul Strait, the taste of this fish is unmatched by any caught elsewhere in the world. This makes it one of the most eagerly awaited fish varieties by enthusiasts. To emphasize its prestigious status, there is a saying: “You will eat the bluefish openly, but the bonito secretly!” No wonder this saying emerged, it is considered a prestigious fish by the people of Istanbul, so if you want to show off, you just order it in a restaurant and keep bonito for the humble table at home. Lüfer, is undoubtedly the crown jewel of the fish spectrum of Istanbul. At least until the highly praised Black Sea turbot appears. Once upon a time, other seafood delicacies such as lobsters and oysters, and even scallops, could be found around the Princess Islands, but unfortunately that is now a thing of the past.

Istanbul seafood is not only about the precious fish that adorn gourmet tables. There are more options for the masses and the people’s winner is definitely “hamsi,” the Black Sea anchovies. Istanbul’s many northern districts have shores on the Black Sea, and this humble fish of the north, comes to the rescue of the masses on a tight budget. Winter surely belongs to anchovies. There is a saying: “There must be some snow water in the anchovy’s ear.” It is believed that the icy cold waters make the tiny fish fattier, and more fat equals better flavor. The grand final is always the Black Sea turbot, “kalkan” in Turkish. Compared to a sacrificial lamb, it is like a once-a-year-only indulgence for many, or a feast to try before you die. The fishing season in Istanbul ends in mid-April with kalkan, the diva, bidding farewell until the next September.